Ride Forever Blog

Ride Forever Blog http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/rss MISTAKES, I’VE MADE A FEW... PART ONE http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/mistakes-i-ve-made-a-few-part-one/ I’d suggest that nearly all can be defined as:
<ol><li>Occasional and random errors brought on by such things as a loss of concentration, a distraction or a misjudgement. Even the best riders make these, but training can minimise their occurrence and consequences.</li>
<li>Systemic errors that are ingrained and therefore repeated. These are the mark of riders who are poorly trained, unskilled and/or lacking judgement.</li>
</ol>What kind of mistakes am I talking about? Well, we’ve covered a few before, like gripping the bars too tight, befuddled ideas about braking and so on. Over the next two blogs I will detail some of the ones I see all too often.
<h3>TECHNIQUE MISTAKES</h3>
Vulnerable road positioning in traffic. Becoming an urban riding guru takes time and practice. I’d say some of the best you’ll ever see are in London, especially the couriers. However ‘bold’ their riding appears, they have to be good: get it wrong and an accident inevitably comes quickly. I spent nearly ten years riding in London and loved it, but it is not a place for the meek. In the cut and thrust of city traffic, misinterpreting ‘defensive riding’ to mean being submissive is likely to land you in hospital. Auckland might be an open prairie compared to London, but the principles are the same. You need to be highly assertive, particularly about positioning. Get seen, attract attention, command the road space and always be in a position where you can get away from a developing situation. All too often I see motorcyclists and scooterists having their riding and road position dictated to them by four-wheeled traffic. Which means you’ll be the victim of their mistakes.
Poor balance. You can tell a lot about a rider’s skill level just by watching them at walking pace. There’s a quiet pride in coming to a smooth, elegant stop, feet on pegs until you touch a steadying toe. Or pulling away in reverse fashion, immediately able to use the foot controls. Or making full lock turns, feet up. All indicate good balance and confident control. Meanwhile, I’m forever seeing riders pulling to a halt with their feet hanging down (usually weaving around and dropping to one side), riding away from the lights the same way or paddling their machines around when manoeuvring. It’s not just bad form. Without your feet on the pegs, you can’t lock onto the bike, so your steering and balance are going to be compromised. Do the last bit of braking with the back brake alone.
Following too closely. A high proportion of bike accidents involve rear-ending other vehicles (around 10%). It doesn’t take much to see why. A lot is to do with positioning in traffic, mentioned above. If you are boxed in by cars, you have a fair chance of having to react quickly to braking by vehicles in front. With their extra tyre area, weight and stability, cars can often stop more quickly than motorcycles, especially when grip is low. In dense traffic, leaving a comfortable gap will just mean someone pulls into it. So position your bike so that, if there is sudden braking, you have a gap between cars that you can brake into. i.e. position yourself slightly offset, and visible in drivers’ mirrors. On the open road it’s different. It’s easy to leave a sensible gap (the ‘two-second rule’, for dry roads). Far too many bikes hang off a car’s rear bumper. Plan your riding and only get close when you know an overtaking opportunity is likely to present itself.
Information and tips about correct techniques can be found on the Ride Forever website: <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=21]">Ride Forever Techniques Page</a> Wed, 22 May 2013 07:36:50 +1200 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/mistakes-i-ve-made-a-few-part-one/ RETYREMENT PLANNING http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/retyrement-planning/ I actually enjoy wandering around motorcycle tyre shops, checking out the tyres and inhaling the sweet smell of grip. And why not? I’d go so far as to say tyres are perhaps the most important components of a motorbike. They not only provide the grip that stops us crashing, they profoundly affect how a motorcycle rides.
With a good dousing of rain at long last, visions of winter are not far away, i.e. wet, slippery roads and cold tyres. At the same time the Racetec Interacts on my Speed Triple are begging to look a bit thin, so it looks like I’ll be doing some secret sniffing in the aisles of my local tyre dealer. I’ve pretty much already made up my mind on a pair of Michelin Pilot Road 3s. They have a reputation for amazing wet grip, largely down to the use of ‘sipes’ which are pretty rare on motorcycle tyres. I’ve ridden a mate’s K1300S with them on (in the dry), and I really liked them. But then I usually like Michelins: most have a slight ‘V’ profile which I find makes the bike eager to turn and gives confidence when leant right over. Other riders prefer a more neutral ‘C’ section, so it’s worth trying different tyres if you can.
Of course it’s no use buying top tyres then failing to do the basics, like check pressures and look for wear or damage. I check my pressures weekly and as my Metzlers have gotten older, they usually need a couple of PSI putting in after a fortnight. After a month in the garage when I was abroad, the inside bar was pushing hard in turns and the pressures were down to the mid-20s.
So go out now and have a good check over your tyres. Then make it habit. Sun, 21 Apr 2013 23:34:29 +1200 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/retyrement-planning/ TIE ME DOWN http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/tie-me-down/ We’ve touched on the long distance bike-buying issue before. But there are plenty of other times when you’ll want to transport your bike rather than ride it. Like taking a track bike to the circuit, an off-roader to your favourite trails or getting your bike across the water by ferry.
All three require pretty much the same thing: locking your bike down securely for transport. For trailering your bike, there’s a good piece <a href="http://www.intruderalert.ca/motorcycle_tiedown.htm">here</a> from a Canadian website, including sound advice on why the handlebars are NOT a good location point on the bike. You’ll find advice elsewhere on the web suggesting the handlebars as tie down points: it’s definitely best not to, but you can use the bars to stop a bike moving laterally, for example inside a van.
Oh, and putting the bike in gear, while advisable, is NOT a substitute for chocking the wheels.
Securing your bike on the ferry to cross Cook Straight is another matter. And if your experience of ferry crossings is from Europe, a word to the wise: bring your own tie-downs. Interislander actually advise you of this on their FAQs page but it might come as a shock to those of us more used to Brittany Ferries. To be fair, Interislander usually has sufficient tie-downs but at busy times, when a lot of Motorcycles are crossing, they can run out. And you do not want you pride and joy relying solely on its side stand in a typical crossing of Cook Straight.
If you do have to tie your bike down, put it in gear, steering lock on and on the side stand (not the centre stand, because if the back wheel is not hard on the deck the bike can move forward and off the stand.). Use two tie-downs if you can. Look for loading eyes to locate both ends and pass the strap over your seat. There may be pads available but it is best to either bring your own thick, strong pad to protect the seat or use your gloves. Ratchet the tie-down nice and tight so that you can see the suspension visibly compress (don’t overdo it though or you can munter the fork seals). If you have a second strap, see if you can get it round the rear of the frame and tie it down behind the bike to eliminate any chance of forward movement.
If you are on the ferry this autumn, have fun wherever you’re going. Thu, 18 Apr 2013 04:16:23 +1200 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/tie-me-down/ CANDID CAMERA http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/candid-camera/ But, looking in to it, there seems to be a whole lot of competition getting in on the act, including Sony and Bullet. The new Sony Action Cam looks pretty good for bike use - there’s a review of it being used for snow sports <a href="http://www.chipchick.com/2013/03/action-cam-with-wi-fi.html">here</a>.
One aspect of that camera that looks useful is it has in-built WiFi, so you can upload footage without going near a computer.
If you do splash out on a camera for on-bike capture, there are a couple of tips I’ve learned from irritating experience. Make sure you test it on a longish ride before you do anything special that you want to film. Pay particular attention to the adjustment for the view you get, any smears on the lens cover and listen to the sound recording carefully - sometimes you can get rattles that overwhelm the ambient sound (engine and exhaust) and you'll need to work out where it comes from.
Have you got any other tips? Post them here or send us an <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=11]">email</a>. Fri, 05 Apr 2013 10:30:00 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/candid-camera/ Ride Forever at Methven Mountain Thunder http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/ride-forever-at-methven-mountain-thunder/ On Easter Saturday, 30 March 2013 this motorcycle street race sees bikes travelling at up to 200kmph on the 1km circuit, completing laps in 32 – 34 seconds.
Gates open at 9am so make your Easter Saturday a fun day out and don’t forget to stop by the Ride Forever marquee.
More info on Ride Forever Methven Mountain Thunder can be found here: <a href="http://www.amazingspace.co.nz/methven/MountainThunder/">http://www.amazingspace.co.nz/methven/MountainThunder/</a> Mon, 18 Mar 2013 19:37:03 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/ride-forever-at-methven-mountain-thunder/ SUMMER RIDING http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/summer-riding-2/ Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:11:48 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/summer-riding-2/ ASSUME NOTHING http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/assume-nothing/ Now, I know your first question would be “It’s not badly damaged, is it?”, but my first concern was for his well being. Thankfully, he didn’t have a scratch on him (leathers, full-face helmet, boots, gloves - they do work).
The accident happened on a piece of road the two of us ride constantly, as it is the only way into Devonport where we live. Unsurprisingly, then, it is almost always choked with stationary vehicles. The joy of being on a bike is that you can trickle past them, which is what he was doing when a driver turned right from out of the traffic queue into a driveway, collecting my mate along the way. He apparently did a sterling job of braking and steering at the same time, managing to end up in the same driveway as the car, though colliding with its front wing. Although he nearly stayed upright, he did end up having to drop the bike to get his leg out (bent handlebars and footpeg is the extent of the damage).
Now, the interesting thing about this is that the driver was indicating right and my friend saw it. But he assumed the driver was indicating to pull into a right-turn bay just ahead and then into that side road. No, she was aiming for the driveway.
Now, you could level blame at the driver for not checking her mirrors or glancing behind as she turned. Fair enough, but she might have checked her mirrors a few seconds before, put on her indicator then waited a second or two while the traffic crawled up to her driveway (and a Ducati growled past the cars behind her). There is a hatched divider at that section of road too, so you could say she should have moved onto it. Maybe. The fact remains, however, that my buddy saw the indicator but assumed the driver wasn’t going to turn immediately.
Never, ever do that, okay? Mon, 25 Feb 2013 03:52:41 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/assume-nothing/ TESTING, TESTING...TWO... http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/testing-testing-two/ One again, I’d encourage you to get the exact details on everything from NZTA via <a href="http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/getting/motorcycles/changes.html">their website</a>, What I hope to do here is introduce the changes in manageable chunks and open them out to discussion.
You might say the starting point of getting your motorcycle licence is passing the Basic Handling Skills test, and on November 1 last year it got harder. As discussed in the last blog, this was all part of the plan to drive higher standards across the board for the least experienced drivers and riders.
The new BHS test is slightly longer and more difficult than before. But, looked at objectively, what it demands of you as a rider is pretty, er, basic. If you are going to ride a bike on a public road, you should be able to cope with the tests without too much drama.
So, what are they? The NZTA list them as:
 • basic turn and stop • figure of eight and park • linking figures of eight • increased speed and emergency stop
You’ll be doing all of this in a relatively confined space - 15 metres by 35 metres - off road. All the action is based around three 10-metre outer circles, which touch each other, and their three 5-metre inner circles.
With a maximum of 35 metres to play in, and a top speed requirement of 20km/h, you can quickly see that this is not going to be like the TT. The emphasis is very much on steady progress and being in control.
Because you will be moving around steadily, the examiner will be able to assess what you are doing closely. They won’t just be looking to see you don’t wobble, crash into cones or fall off. So as well as being in obvious control of the bike, you’ll need to demonstrate:
• Looking, i.e. head up, looking where you are going (including looking ‘through’ the turns), check mirrors and surroundings) • Head check, i.e. looking briefly behind, over the appropriate shoulder, when you make any signalled manoeuvre, pull away, or change direction • Signal - the examiner will advise when and where you should be signalling during each test. Make sure you also CANCEL it. • Speed - fast enough to make smooth progress but it’s unlikely you will exceed 20km/h • Lateral position, i.e. keep to the centre of the lane when moving off, riding straight or stopping; set yourself up to the left before entering a right-hand turn, then turn in a smooth arc ending up tight to the curve on exit • Parking observation, i.e. look where you are going! If you are reversing back into a parking space use your mirrors or look over your shoulders to assess where you are • Parking movement, i.e. stop straight then back into the space accurately and under control.
It’s really not that hard. But there are a few things to watch out for. Your instructor will be assessing you against three sets of criteria:
• Assessment items (that is those listed above) • Critical errors (such as leaving the designated lane, significant loss of control or not keeping both wheels in contact with the ground at all times) • Immediate failure errors (Including riding outside the course, falling off, failing to carry out the examiner’s instructions or doing something that demands the examiner’s intervention).
You obviously don’t want to do any of the latter. But it’s important to realise you don’t have to do everything perfectly. And if you do make an error, accept it and determine not to do it again. Keep calm and carry on!
Although the new test is harder than before, passing it is not a mystery. Make sure you read the details <a href="http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/getting/motorcycles/skills-test.html">here</a>. And approach the whole exercise with confidence: it’s a short test in a small area and if you can show that you know what you should be doing–even if you neglect to do something once or twice–and ride around steadily and in control, you should be walking away ready to apply for your learner’s licence.
 
 Fri, 15 Feb 2013 08:30:00 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/testing-testing-two/ BRAKING NEWS http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/braking-news/ The article’s contents were a mixed bag, from okay through to dangerously incorrect. Then the commenters piled on with their pearls of wisdom, many of which were even worse than the author’s.
There was plenty to take issue with but something that simply flabbergasted me was the ignorance on display about braking. It might seem obvious but braking is the skill that can do most to stop you having an accident or minimise the severity of the one you have. It’s how you shed speed when you really need to.
So I was horrified to read all kinds of inappropriate or wrongly directed advice. I’ve written before about <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=175]">general braking technique</a>, but let me try to correct some of the specific errors that came up in this forum:
1. “You should brake 70:30, front to rear.” There’s some general truth in the fact that you can, and should, do significantly more braking with the front. But a fixed ratio is absolute, dangerous rubbish. It depends on the bike, how it’s loaded, on the surface, the terrain and on the conditions. 
Take a bike like mine, a current-model Triumph Street Triple. Out of the factory it weighed 214 kg fully fueled with a front-biased weight distribution. It has a relatively compact 1435mm wheelbase, steep 22.8º / 90.9mm rake and trail, Brembo radial brakes and relatively sticky Racetec Interact K3 tyres - 120 front, 190 rear. I’ve fitted a carbon 3-into-1 (ditching the heavy under-seat silencers), a cut-down tail tidy and removed the rear footrests and brackets. I tell you all this so you can understand that this is a shortish, lightish motorcycle capable of powerful braking performance, with most of its weight carried forward. In extremis, on a good, dry road surface, the limit point of braking involves controlling an incipient ‘stoppie’. The bike wants to rotate forward around the front wheel hub, because: 
a) the forces are so great (huge grip from the front tyre and powerful brakes), and b) the bike’s mass is very close to the pivot point of the front hub (short wheelbase, little trail, mass-forward weight distribution. 
In layman’s terms, there’s very little keeping the rear wheel on the ground. Under extreme braking, it is usually hovering just off the ground. How am I going to get 30% of my braking from that? However, let’s take a different bike in different circumstances. On my Pyrenees trip last year I was riding a R 1200 GS. Wheelbase is 1507 mm, unladen wet wight 229kg, 25.7º rake, 101mm trail, heavy shaft drive, sliding post calipers and a 110 ‘dual-purpose’ front tyre. The bike was fully laden, with expandable panniers fully expanded and a stuffed top box. Was I using the back brake much? Oh yes. In fact much of the time it would be about 70:30, or close to 60:40 when the front started to fade... 
There are other considerations. Let’s take a common scenario in mountain riding, where you crest a brow and the road ahead is a steep approach to a steep, downhill hairpin. Typically, I’d get on the front and rear brakes simultaneously, or the back even slightly ahead of the front to settle the suspension. Weight would transfer forwards and I’d build the front brake pressure progressively while reducing the rear - to almost nothing. At, or just before, the point of turn in I would be smoothly releasing the front brake while bringing the back brake into play. Then, as I turn in, I might trail just a bit of rear brake - this can help turn a tight line and control how the bike picks up speed in the downhill turn. 70:30? Perhaps, at a few stages. My point is that braking can and will vary between front and rear depending on all sorts of circumstances. 
Like when it’s <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=137]">wet</a> and <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=59]">slippery</a>. You won’t be able to brake as hard, weight the front and lift the rear off the ground, so you’ll be able to use the back brake more. You’ll rely more on the back on <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=58]">gravel roads</a>, too.
A set, prescribed ratio is therefore likely to be wrong more often than it’s right. Like many skills in motorcycling it is all about ‘feel’. In that earlier blog on braking, I described how you can <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=175]">improve your sense of feel</a> for when the front tyre is about to be overwhelmed and lock. There’s simply no substitute for building your experience and learning where the limits lie. ABS, of course, can take away some of the worry about an incipient lock-up. But you still cannot ignore the laws of physics if you’re turned into a corner, say. And you still have to gauge how much braking force goes to each tyre: a linked system might dish out some braking to the front if you stamp on the rear, but you won’t be getting anywhere near maximum braking effect.
 
I could go on about rear brake use at <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=30]">low-speed</a>, in <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=73]">pillion riding</a> and for coming to an elegant halt. But I’d rather address another myth that came up in said comments:
2. “You want to keep two fingers over the front brake lever at all times.” Really? Why two? In the dry, I can pull stoppies or lock the front tyre on my Speed Triple with one finger. So that’s what I tend to use on the road, and the same goes for most sportsbikes I ride. On track, however, I use my three outer fingers on the brake and blip the throttle with the inner finger and palm. (This is a very unusual technique, I’ll admit, one I share with Shinya Nakano and few others.) Occasionally, for prolonged heavy braking at the end of the straight, I’ll use all my fingers. Why, when I’ve already said I can lock up or stoppie the bike with a finger? 
In a word, ‘feel’ (again). My Brembos are powerful enough to do the business with one finger and–on the road, when I might encounter something sudden and unexpected–I like to cover the brakes at all times. If, in reacting to a shock event, I pulled the brake with my whole hand, what would happen? It would be very easy to overwhelm the front tyre. But on track, I might be braking right on the limit, but I know exactly where, when and how hard I should be doing it (within reason). I can be confident a taxi will not do a sudden U-turn in front of me on the way into turn 1 at Hampton Downs. But if I’m pushing hard, I want to know as closely as I can when the front tyre is about to reject my ham-fisted attempts to carry speed and lean as I brake. So I use my whole hand, or near enough, to feel for it. Rossi, incidentally, almost always brakes with all four fingers. Stoner is more of a piano player, sometimes only using one where he wants to scrub off a limited amount of speed.
Now, all of the above is fine and dandy when talking about a radially-braked sports bike on road, versus track days. But what about other bikes? Would I be happy hovering one finger over the brake lever on any bike? No way. Take something like a big, heavy cruiser or custom. Reckon you’re going to get much braking effect with one finger? Or two? You are going to want a full hand pulling on that brake lever in any emergency.
And here’s another thing. Most bikes do not have the tyre-shredding power of a sportsbike’s brakes. In fact, on the vast majority of machines, you can end up pulling the front brake lever back to the bars in a dry-roads emergency stop (modern tyres are that good). Only, er, you won’t be able to: because you’ve got your other fingers wrapped round the throttle grip. You’ll trap your fingers and be unable to apply full braking force.
Once again, trying to come up with some ‘general rule’ ends up being bad (and dangerous) advice. Relying on one or two fingers for instant response in an emergency can work, if you have the right bike (and skills). But for far more riders it’s a dangerous mistake.
If you’ve read this and now feel you’ve been doing the wrong thing, or would like to improve your braking technique, it could be a great opportunity to take some advanced training. There’s no better way of shaking off bad habits and instilling some best practice. You can find a list of quality training providers on the main website, <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=206]">here</a>.
 Sun, 27 Jan 2013 19:58:57 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/braking-news/ TESTING, TESTING...ONE http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/testing-testing-one/ Inevitably, there are some riders out there who are confused and nervous. While NZTA has gone to a lot of trouble to make things clear on <a href="http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/getting/motorcycles/changes.html">their website</a>, I’ve decided to do a few blogs that deal with the changes in manageable chunks. Plus, of course, you can ask questions in comments, which I will do my best to answer or I’ll rope in somebody from the appropriate authority.
Let’s start at the beginning: why is the licensing regime changing and what do they hope to achieve in doing so?
The starting point is the overall Government strategy aimed at reducing road accidents, injuries and deaths called ‘Safer Journeys’. This was launched back in 2010 and I do hope you, like I, submitted your opinions on it during the draft stages. It’s really important to watch these things–not just in areas like motorcycling, but all aspects of national and local politics–and make your voice heard. It’s all part of the democratic process, so when something gets proposed that you have a view on, find the relevant website and make a submission.
Okay, lecture over. Anyway, one part of the ‘Safer Journeys’ process that made it through to become policy was that of changing the learner licensing and test procedures for car drivers and motorcycle riders. Basically, the idea was to make the testing tougher with the obvious aim of pushing driving and riding standards higher. I don’t know about you but I can’t see a downside to that. And the focus was on the youngest and least experienced, to raise their game at a time when they are at their most vulnerable.
Back in February last year, the first changes came in. The restricted licence test became longer while the full test shortened. The thinking was that by the time riders are taking their full test they’ve already accumulated a fair bit of experience and skill, so it should almost be a formality. However, at the restricted stage it is really important to test their skill and knowledge, and that should encourage a higher standard (or you fail). This is more in line with what happens elsewhere around the world. In some jurisdictions you don’t even take a test for your full licence: you are given it after a set length of time riding on your Restricted.
The other big change last year happened in October, with the launch of the Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme. We wrote <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=194]">about this </a>near the time, and for me it’s good common sense and fantastic because it gives learner riders so much more choice of what they can ride. Including some really cool stuff! The over-riding rule is that your bike can’t exceed a power-to-weight ratio of 150kW per tonne. Again, we’re seeing this kind of approach around the world, with a similar standard in some Australian states and a 33 bhp restricted limit in the UK, for example.
That’s enough for now. Next up we’ll examine the new Basic Handling Skills Test that came into force in November, and what NZTA has planned for the future. And if you have a question, please ask.
 
 Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:43:58 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/testing-testing-one/ A TOUGHER TEST http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/a-tougher-test/ The upshot is that the test will be harder, as was the intention with the earlier changes to car driver testing. If you’re looking to get your Learner licence, or you know somebody who is, check out the details <a href="http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/getting/motorcycles/skills-test.html">here</a>.
In fact, the whole system of licensing, testing and what you can ride has undergone a comprehensive review, so we’ll try to sum the changes from time to time and let you know what to expect. Tue, 15 Jan 2013 19:12:29 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/a-tougher-test/ Welcome Back http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/welcome-back/ I’m having a bit of a fraught negotiation with Santa because I don’t see why a new boat should disqualify me from getting a new ‘bike, now that I have finally found what I want:
<img class="left" src="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/assets/_resampled/resizedimage492280-ride4ever.JPG" width="492" height="280" alt="" title=""/>
Now, it could be a CGI creation but if that is the next 1190 Superduke I want one.
Meantime, I devoted some much-overdue TLC to my Speed Triple over the holidays. Jeez, once you really start cleaning a bike it’s hard to know when to stop, eh? Some minor dismantling did take place and I actually found a bolt missing from inside the collector box cover. No big deal, but it does show how a really close inspection can uncover wee problems you might not otherwise notice. There’s some good stuff on basic <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=85]">bike maintenance </a>on the website, of course.
The OEM-fitment Metzler Race Interacts are looking a bit thin now, so I shall be in the market for replacements soon. I’m leaning towards Michelin Pilot Road 3s because (with one exception) I have always liked the way Michelins steer – something about the profile. But the Metzlers were impressive, too, and I could get away with just a rear. Can’t beat a fresh PAIR of tyres, though. I guess it depends on the availability of Santa’s late delivery!
 Mon, 14 Jan 2013 00:11:57 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/welcome-back/ Have a safe Xmas http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/have-a-safe-xmas/ And I really mean that: that everyone who has dropped in to read our missives over the year has a fun, relaxed and, above all, safe break. This is a time when tragedy is even more keenly felt in families, and we've written <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=147]">before</a> about the particular hazards that apply around this time of year.
So take it easy but stay alert, and keep it shiny side up for 2013. Thu, 20 Dec 2012 03:26:48 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/have-a-safe-xmas/ YOUR FRIEND, THE CLUTCH http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/your-friend-the-clutch/ And that’s a shame, because the clutch is your friend in many ways.
Back in the day, for those of us who cut our teeth riding highly (or more likely, badly) tuned two-strokes, the clutch really could come to your rescue. Gunfighter-like reactions were cultivated, in the hope of whipping the clutch in at the onset of engine seizure. I had cause to do it more than once, including a memorable moment when a borrowed RD400/350 hybrid decided to grenade itself at high speed. It was a long walk back to clear up the debris trail...
With the reliability of modern four-stroke engines, keeping the clutch covered at all times doesn’t have quite the same necessity. But there are other ways that clutch control can help your riding.
Watch the on-bike footage from MotoGP or WSBK closely, and you’ll see just how big a role the clutch plays, especially getting the bike into the corner. Rossi, as with so many aspects, is a master of this. You’ll see how gradually he lets the clutch out as he gets the bike over to full lean. At the same time he’ll be balancing just enough throttle to stabilise the bike before getting to full lean, and the clutch fully out. The clutch helps soften the application of gas. The same principle works on the road, especially when a bike’s fueling isn't the silkiest.
If those gunfighter skills are still sharp, pulling in the clutch has been known to save the odd high-side. In theory, modern Traction Control makes this unnecessary but not long ago, on a bike so-equipped, my experience was rather different...
Another place where clutch control is critical is low speed maneuvering. Slipping the clutch, balancing against revs, enables you to precisely control forward momentum and steering. You can use the back brake as a further ‘damper’ of momentum, too.
Although designed for racing, the invention of ‘slipper’ clutches shows how important clutch control can be when braking and changing down. On the road, smooth engagement of the clutch with each gear is essential for keeping the bike stable as you approach a corner.
Riding off road is always a great way to hone skills and confidence that you can translate to the road. And clutch control is a prime example. Off-road riders use the clutch in all sorts of ways, including shifting weight between front and back, controlling ascents and descents, and walking bikes through sections that are simply unrideable. Once learned, skills like these give a whole different perspective on the way the clutch affects your bike.
So, let us praise this humble collection of springs and plates in your driveline. Because when it comes to control, the clutch is King. 
 Wed, 19 Dec 2012 03:19:47 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/your-friend-the-clutch/ Mind the gap http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/mind-the-gap/ Although it’s too early to know exactly what happened, it’s disturbing that several bikes were involved in the same incident. If you are riding in a group, it’s essential to maintain proper gaps. There’s sound advice about group riding on the <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=77]">website</a>. You can even get a <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=136]">free DVD </a>all about it.
Although the riding conditions are getting nicer now, there’s more and more traffic about. In the run up to the Christmas holidays people get stressed and can be distracted, so be very, very wary when you encounter other vehicles. And if you are riding in a group, be sure to always maintain those gaps, so you have time to avoid trouble ahead. Tue, 04 Dec 2012 20:03:16 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/mind-the-gap/ Pre-season shakedown http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/pre-season-shakedown/ It isn’t just your bike that can go rusty from neglect. So, of course, can your riding skills. Getting back in the groove is something we’ve all had to do over the years but it can be a risky period. You’re not going to be as sharp as when you packed the bike away for the duration, and all sorts of things can happen before you’re back to top form.
There are, however, some things you can do to steepen the learning curve and get there faster.
A great starting point is to get in shape physically. Riding a motorbike can be demanding, so general fitness and good muscle tone do help. I find exercise is a very individual thing, so do whatever works best for you. But the three things you should be aiming for are:
<ul><li>Cardio-vascular fitness. A good degree of this is essential for stamina, so you don’t get tired and lose concentration on longer rides.</li>
<li>Strength. Chucking a motorcycle around, even in extremis, doesn’t actually require much muscular strength, particularly in your upper body. But you will want to have strong legs and core, because that allows you to lock onto the bike and keep pressure off the ‘bars. It’s particularly important on sports bikes, so you support yourself with your back and abdominal muscles NOT by leaning on the clip ons. Strong calves, thighs and adductors will let you get a lock between the pegs and the tank or frame.</li>
<li>Flexibility. Controlling a motorcycle properly involves using your bodyweight, and having a full range of movement is a big advantage. Flexibility is too often neglected in many fitness regimes, particularly amongst blokes.</li>
</ul>While fitness is great, it’s also essential to hone your riding skills. These are some simple exercises that can accelerate your rise back up the skill ladder:
<ul><li>Practice your visual skills. These are some of the most important determinants of your ability to control a motorcycle confidently and proficiently. Keith Code’s “Twist of the Wrist” series is great on this, definitely worth rereading. I like to practice building a ‘visual flow’ by actively identifying the key reference points (RPs) for a corner - turn-in point, apex, exit - then practice shifting what I am concentrating on to the next RP before I arrive at the one in front of me. Your peripheral vision easily locates you so you hit your selected turn-in point, while you shift to looking at the apex, for example. After mastering this three-part shift of your vision, start identifying more RPs for the corner - five, seven, or more - and shifting between them. Eventually, your vision should shift in a seamless flow rather than steps, so you’re always looking well ahead at the next identified RP, not where you are just about to arrive. Another great visual skill to practice is Keith Code’s trick of shifting your attention around your field of vision, without shifting your eyes. You can practice this off the bike, and then apply it as your ride along. It lets you find RPs all around you, so you can better locate yourself on the road and in the terrain. </li>
<li>Do the funky chicken. When you first get back on a bike, it’s hard to feel as relaxed as you did after riding all summer long. And that can lead to tensing up, gripping the ‘bars or using the handlebars to support yourself. Check that your upper body is totally relaxed by occasionally flapping your elbows while your hands stay on the grips.</li>
<li>Get a feel for counter-steering. Make some very deliberate counter-steering moves as you turn into corners. Make the push on the inside ‘bar while effectively taking your hand off the other one. You’ll find it quickly reinforces the idea of counter-steering, making it second nature. Finally, although it should go without saying, cut yourself some slack while you’re getting your feel back. Don’t be tempted to push too hard, too early. A classic mistake is going out for a ride with mates who maybe haven’t had a lay-off over winter, and struggling to keep up. That is just the way it is: don’t feel the need to slot in where you left off within some kind of ‘hierarchy’ of ‘who’s fastest’ or most capable. After a few weeks, you’ll find your feet.</li>
</ul> Sun, 18 Nov 2012 20:03:38 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/pre-season-shakedown/ Ferry Story http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/ferry-story/ If you’ve never taken your bike on a big ferry before, there’s not too much to worry about. But there are some things that can catch you out so here are a few tips:
<ul><li>Ramps and decking in the ship can be very slippery. It’s often a combo of oil and water, so be a bit wary when maneuvering – on and off the bike!</li>
<li>Keep all your valuables, travel documents and anything you might want during the crossing (book, map, camera, phone etc.) in an easily removable bag, so when you stow the bike you can take it all with you. A tank bag works fine or have a bag that sits in the top of your panniers or top box.</li>
<li>Watch for where the loadmaster instructs you to park when getting on board. Usually all the bikes will be in one bunch.</li>
<li>You’ll park your bike between the load-lock eyes and the crew will tie it down using a load strap that goes across a protective pad on the seat. I usually hang around just to see they don’t damage paintwork or the seat with the strapping. It might not make you popular, but hey...</li>
<li>Park the bike on its side stand, IN GEAR. Once the load straps are done up tight, it’s usually very secure as it is locked in tension against the stand. But if the bike is not in gear it can move and flick off the stand. </li>
<li>Remember, take everything you want with you as you will not be able to get back to the bike during the crossing.</li>
</ul>Have fun and watch for the dolphins.
 Wed, 07 Nov 2012 19:16:53 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/ferry-story/ Another spring, another Burt http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/another-spring-another-burt/ It’s certainly a fantastic event, and this year’s (21st to 25th November) promises to be a huge one. You can read all about it <a href="http://www.burtmunrochallenge.com" target="_blank">here</a>. And, while attending the event is bound to be fun, there’s always a lot to think about if you’re riding to it from way up country.
I’ve written about some of the riding aspects <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=145]">before</a> and it’s defeintely worth checking out before you go. But there are a few other issues to consider. Especially if you are wheeling the beast out for the first time after a winter lay-up.
What you’ll need to do to get the bike prepped for riding again will depend on three main factors:
• How long it was in storage • How protected it was from the elements (including the cold) • The extent to which you ‘winterised’ the bike prior to taking it off the road 
There’s a good guide from Classic Motorcycles to the things you potentially will need to do <a href="http://classicmotorcycles.about.com/od/serviceandrepair/a/Starting-A-Motorcycle-After-Winter-Storage.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.
However, given most people’s winters in New Zealand are not very severe, you might have just not used the bike much over a period of eight to ten weeks. In which case, your real focus should be on brakes and tyres. If the bike has been in an unheated place and where you live regularly gets below zero, tyre compunds can suffer. If the bike has been sat on its wheels through that period it will also have deformed the tyres to some extent. As the above link advises, you can usually rectify that by overinflating the tyres by 4 or 5 psi, rotating them to a different cotact spot and leaving them for 24 hours (remember to adjust the ressures before riding). But, when all is said and done, if the tyres have been reguarly frozen and they are a bit out of shape, it could be time to invest in a fresh set.
Brakes can deteriorate over winter too. Brake fluid is very good at absorbing water and that will not ony reduce the brakes’ effectiveness and make them fade-prone, it can produce corrosion in the system. A full bleed makes sense, together with a careful checkover. If you’re confident you can do it yourself, otherwise book it in with your mechanic.
Be sure to check all brake hoses for signs of cracking or hardening. If you find any, they’ll need replacing immediately.
Brake rotors can go rusty. A light dusting on the braking surface will soon get swept clean by the pads (though they might be a bit grabby on first application) but if they’re really rusty take the worst off with some fine to medium grade wet-and-dry abrasive paper. Then clean with brake cleaner. If the rotors then look worn compared to the unswept area, you’ll need to bite the bullet and get new discs.
The other part of the brake rotors to check carefully are the carriers. Look for any sign of cracking or heavy rust.
Once you’re sure the tyres and brakes are in shape, check (and if necessary adjust) the chain tension, lube it, then go for a short, gentle ride to get a feel for whether everything is okay. Then, look over the brakes and tyres for anything out of the ordinary.
If the bike hasn’t been run for a while the petrol in the tank will not be the best, so brim it with new stuff.
Right. So that’s the bike ready for riding. Now what about you?
That will be another post... Thu, 25 Oct 2012 02:39:31 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/another-spring-another-burt/ Filter Tips http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/filter-tips/ First, filtering. In terms of the road rules, it’s a somewhat grey area under NZ legislation. I take my cues from the constabulary. They do not seem to mind so long as you do not ride like a muppet. Filtering through traffic, after all, is what gives a motorcycle or scooter 80% of its advantage in traffic. Not only that, by filtering, two-wheelers do not contribute to congestion. Belgian transport specialists TML proved as much in <a href="http://www.tmleuven.be/project/motorcyclesandcommuting/home.htm" target="_blank">this study </a>of motorcycle commuting, showing how consequential filtering by bikes is to preventing congestion. Basically, if we all acted like cars the roads would grind to a halt.
So filtering is enormously important to the efficiency and pleasure we derive from riding in urban areas. And it’s also of major benefit to other road users in reducing the congestion they experience. Some very good reasons, then, for ensuring we continue to enjoy the privilege. Only you wouldn’t think so from the way some of our two-wheeled brethren go about it.
Aggressive? Dangerous? Unobservant? I’m not talking about car drivers: these are observations of some riders I’ve shared the city’s roads with over the last couple of months. It’s the ‘race’ mentality that worried me most. I make ‘good progress’ through traffic. I spent nearly ten years riding motorbikes around London and if that and the odd lap of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris doesn’t kill you, it will hone your skills at riding in traffic.
So here’s a typical scenario. I’m smoothly making my way through traffic on one of Auckland’s busy, multi-lane roads, constantly adjusting my speed, positioning, spacing and lane choice to ensure I have all the best chances: of being seen, of gaining cooperation, of riding in space, of getting out of trouble. I’m gaining on another rider ahead, perhaps in my lane, perhaps parallel. Having spotted me in their mirrors, said biker cogs it down and accelerates. Once happy moving between two lanes, now they weave from hard shoulder to central reservation in search of anywhere they can gas it. They want to race, in other words.
Now, there’s a lot wrong with this and it’s not just the usual admonishments you’ll get from The Law. For a start, the rider was travelling through traffic at what was a comfortable pace for them. Going beyond that means operating the bike out of your comfort zone. That’s not terrifically smart when you’re at turn one of lap one in a race. On a busy urban motorway, it’s stupid.
I am not fond of the sense of responsibility it creates, either. My ‘comfortable’ pace is obviously higher, which is why I caught up. I should be able to just get ahead and carry on but, if I do. am I going to contribute to the other rider’s dangerous antics?
Someone riding like a muppet pees off the general public, and there are downsides for all of us in that - in terms of cooperation, politics and possible regulation.
So treat filtering as a privilege, not a right, and we all benefit. And here are a few tips for doing it the smart way:
<ul><li>In heavy, urban traffic limit your speed to no more than 20km/h faster than other vehicles. So if it’s stationary, cruise through at 20km/h. If it’s crawling about 20km/h then stopping, view 40km/h as tops and be ready to slow when the other vehicles do. Out of town, keep your speed to no more than 10% higher than the traffic flow.</li>
<li>Watch the ‘body language’ of vehicles and drivers like a hawk. If a driver’s head is twisting, they might be looking in their mirror because they want to switch lanes. Ditto if you see a hand go up to adjust the rear view mirror. Train your peripheral vision to pick up things like a change of angle of a front wheel. Watch for car’s moving laterally within lanes - sometimes poor drivers do what I call ‘pendulum steering’ where they shift fractionally one way before making their real turn the other way. It’s a useful rally technique but if the car in front is not a BDA Escort and you are not on a forest stage, beware. </li>
<li>It’s always a good idea to keep the front brake covered but if you’re filtering through traffic keep your toe primed above the back brake too. Often, you can dab the back a fraction quicker than the front and scrub off enough speed to avoid trouble.</li>
<li>On those rare-in-New Zealand occasions when a driver moves across to give you room, be sure to show some gratitude by putting your left hand out or thumb up. </li>
<li>Always have an exit route for wherever you are going. And be aware that a space coming up to one side might look just as tempting to a driver as it does to you.</li>
<li>When moving through stationary traffic, watch out for opening doors. If you can see someone occupying a seat, they can potentially open that door. And if they’re small kids you might not even see them.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=71]" target="_blank">Pedestrians</a> often wander through stalled traffic without looking for bikes. Assume any pedestrian is oblivious to your presence. </li>
<li>Be especially careful filtering past high-sided vehicles that obscure part of your <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=105]" target="_blank">vision</a>. You have no idea what could be in that blind spot so pass at a snail’s pace or choose another part of the road where you have clear sight ahead.</li>
<li>If you aim to filter to the front of a queue at traffic lights, only do so if you know you have enough time to get there. Local knowledge helps. And, as always, have a plan B.</li>
<li>Never get between a vehicle and a turning. Not ever. So don’t overtake through junctions and if you’re using a bus or transit lane on the inside of traffic be hyper-wary when you cross a driveway or side road - somebody might just pull into it.</li>
</ul>Got any other great tips for filtering? Then share them here. Tue, 23 Oct 2012 00:28:53 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/filter-tips/ Rider Down http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/rider-down/ In all weathers, among drivers in all states of consciousness, it wasn’t the most fun I’ve ever had on a motorbike.
What was particularly unnerving were two episodes in the final week where I saw riders who had crashed. The first looked like a young girl on a custom style bike. She was down on the inner lane of a busy motorway and I was in the outside lane, so getting over and back to help would have been a nightmare. In any case, the police were in attendance and had her well protected by patrol cars. She looked to be sitting up and conscious so, fingers crossed, she was okay.
The second episode was on the opposite carriageway of a motorway intersection. A scooter rider was sitting on the kerb alongside some other folk and from as far away as I was I could see the bloody rash on his face. It’s a personal choice, but I always wear a <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=5]">full-face helmet</a> for this very reason. I have had two crashes where I came down largely on my face. Shoei did the business on both occasions, protecting my matinee-idol good looks. (Cue: Tui billboard).
Spring is with us and things like <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=137]">grip</a> and <a href="http://www.rideforever.co.nz/[sitetree_link id=57]">visibility</a> should generally improve. But if you are a regular commuter, as Sergeant Esterhaus always used to say: “Let’s be careful out there”. Mon, 08 Oct 2012 18:59:17 +1300 http://www.rideforever.co.nz/blog/rider-down/