Some key points to start with:

• Ideally braking should be carried out when your motorcycle is upright and running straight ahead.
• It is hardly ever appropriate to use your front brake alone while a bike is moving.
• Your front brakes are stronger as much of the weight during braking is transferred forward, while at the same time decreasing the adherence of the rear tyre. Front brakes should only be used when the motorcycle is substantially upright or travelling straight ahead as using the front brake when the front wheel is not pointing straight ahead, will result in a strong tendency for any bike to bank in the direction it's turned, potentially toppling over.
• If the front brake is applied violently, brake lock-up is likely to occur and a crash will result.
• However front brakes should be used alone whenever your bike is stationary with the engine running so if a gear is engaged accidentally, it won't lurch forward.
• The rear brake is very important because it steadies the bike.
• Maximum braking occurs just before adhesion is lost and when both brakes are operating together.
• Apply brakes progressively. Initially it causes forward weight-transfer. Before the front tyre can bite onto the road ready to accept the full braking load, the front suspension must depress, after which greater braking effort can be applied. If the front brake is applied violently from the outset, brake lock up is likely to occur and a crash usually results.

Below is the technique used as a matter of course when slowing or stopping in a straight line or a gentle curve:

• Keep your eyes up and look where you want to go.
• Close (ease off) the throttle.
• Apply the front brake, squeezing the lever progressively and increasing the pressure once the front suspension has depressed.
• Apply the rear brake next to steady the rear of the bike and maintain tyre adhesion. The pressure on both front and rear brakes can be modulated to produce the degree of braking required.
• Change down in the normal way. The aim is to be in first gear by the time you've stopped (or in a gear which allows good acceleration if you're not coming to a complete halt).
• Ease off brake pressure as you come to a stop or reach the desired speed. If you need to turn as you're coming to a stop, release the front brake and use the rear brake alone to complete the braking procedure.
• Check the rear-vision mirrors and be prepared to accelerate away into a clear space if there's a hazard approaching from the rear.

Once more: braking normally or a strong braking effect requires both brakes be used in the order described above.

In addition:

• Best to start braking as soon as the need to slow is identified, then brake progressively harder as the initial weight transfer forward occurs... rather than discover too late that more braking distance was required. Ouch.
• Closing the throttle is another common form of braking, one that is particularly effective whilst cornering, when tyre-drag and engine-braking cause deceleration.
• Braking when banked over is possible to a significant degree, but best avoided on wet roads. Practise using brakes individually and combined so their effects become familiar in a range of road and weather conditions.
• Use rear braking on turns or slow-speed manoeuvres. It will also help you avoid wheel-spin on dubious surfaces, slow on deep gravel and deal with a front-wheel wobble or puncture.
• Gentle application of the rear brake alone can settle the rear suspension when accelerating over a rippled surface.

Distance
Braking distances increase dramatically as speed rises.

Roughly speaking, in good conditions and without a passenger or heavy load, you can't expect a bike to stop in less than 12m from 50kph, 40m from 100kph and 50m from 110kph. Add to these a reaction time of about a second, and from 100kph you're looking at a 70m stop at best. Sobering stuff.

Allow MUCH greater distances as speed increases or if factors such as wet road surfaces come into play.

Motorcycle brake systems
Some manufacturers link braking operations in varying proportions so that applying the front brake also brings in a proportion of rear braking, and vice versa. Other bikes are equipped with ABS (Anti-lock Braking System), which prevents wheel-locking, making it possible to brake hard and turn to some extent at the same time. For the vast majority of riders, this will provide the best braking performance in an emergency.

Best practise is to use all of your fingers at all times which will give maximum braking force. It is best to use your fingertips because this will give the greatest leverage and sensitivity.

Maintaining brake performance

• Utilise your brakes to maintain their performance. Pads and linings tend to glaze and become less efficient if not given regular work to do. A little emergency braking practise will help...
• After washing your bike or riding through a ford or surface flooding, dry the brakes by light application.
• In very heavy rain a few wheel rotations with the brakes applied lightly often will be required to clear the discs of water before allowing full brake effectiveness.

Emergency braking
Good observation and anticipation plus a generous following distance will make the need for emergency braking rare.

The ability to stop rapidly in an emergency is the single most important self-preservation skill to master.

Rehearse this emergency braking procedure and practise it often, until it becomes a conditioned response. If you carry a passenger, practise with them aboard so you both become accustomed to it:

1) Close (ease off) the throttle.
Cover the front brake lever with your fingers as you approach the hazard. Look to a point along your escape route where you intend to stop. If there's a gap, look towards it. If there's no gap then look at a point short of the hazard. Don't deviate your gaze to the hazard itself. (Remember the principle of looking where you want to go?) If the hazard is a vehicle about to cross in front of you, aim for the front end if possible. Often, a driver will spot you at the last moment and hit the brakes. And if you are to hit, better to hit a low point where you may be thrown over the vehicle.

2) Apply the front brake.
For heavy braking, grip the bike with your knees. Tighten your body and squeeze the bike so that you become more a part of it. This will prevent you ending up sitting on the petrol tank. Avoid having rigid arms because you'll lose all feel for what the front tyre is doing and adhesion may be lost, or the steering may start to turn before you realise it. If that happens, ease off the braking pressure to regain stability and then reapply the brakes.

3) Pull in the clutch lever and hold it in.

4) Apply the rear brake.
Squeeze the brake levers progressively, similar to the action of squeezing a rifle trigger. Concentrate first and much more on the front brake, applying increasing pressure to hand and foot levers so that maximum braking force arrives gradually. A chattering sensation from the rear wheel is a sign lock-up is imminent.

5) Change down through all the gears by tapping repeatedly on the lever. This is known as 'block-changing'.

6) Check the rear-vision mirrors and accelerate away if necessary.

This procedure is also appropriate for ABS equipped bikes, yet with non-ABS linked brakes, rear-wheel lock-up may be difficult to avoid in some cases.

Good observation and anticipation (not to mention maintaining generous following distances) should make the need for emergency braking rare. But don't make complacency a substitute for practise. If a crash is inevitable, the slower you're travelling when it occurs the better off you'll be.

Practise using brakes individually and combined so that the effects become familiar and application can be chosen to suit conditions.